Everything about Fair Isle Technique totally explained
Fair Isle is a traditional
knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colours. It is named for
Fair Isle, a tiny island in the north of
Scotland, between the
Orkney and
Shetland islands. Fair Isle knitting gained a considerable popularity when the Prince of Wales (later to become
Edward VIII) wore Fair Isle
Tank tops in public. Traditional Fair Isle patterns have a limited palette of five or so colours, use only two colours per row, are worked in the round, and limit the length of a run of any particular colour.
Some people use the term "Fair Isle" to refer to any colourwork knitting where stitches are knit alternately in various colors, with the unused colours stranded across the back of the work. Others use the term "stranded colourwork" for the generic technique, and reserve the term "Fair Isle" for the characteristic patterns of the Shetland Islands.
Other techniques for knitting in colour include
intarsia,
slip-stitch colour (also known as
mosaic knitting).
Technique
Basic two-colour Fair Isle requires no new techniques beyond the basic knit stitch. (The purl stitch isn't used.) At each knit stitch, there are two available "active" colours of yarn; one is drawn through to make the knit stitch, and the other is simply held behind the piece, carried as a loose strand of yarn behind the just-made stitch. Knitters who are comfortable with both
English style and
Continental style knitting can carry one colour with their right hand and one with their left, which is probably easiest, although it's also possible to simply use two different fingers for the two colours of yarn and knit both using the same style.
The simplest Fair Isle pattern is as follows: using circular or double pointed needles, cast on any number of stitches. Then, just keep knitting round and round, always alternating colours every stitch. If you started with an even number of stitches, you'll end up with a vertically striped tube of fabric, and if you started with an odd number of stitches, it'll be a diagonal grid that appears to mix the two colours.
Traditional Fair Isle patterns normally had no more than two or three consecutive stitches of any given colour, because they were
stranded, and too many consecutive stitches of one colour means a very long strand of the other, quite easy to catch with a finger or button. A more modern variation is
woven Fair Isle, where the unused strand is held in slightly different positions relative to the needles and thereby woven into the fabric, still invisible from the front, but trapped closely against the back of the piece. This permits a nearly limitless variety of patterns with considerably larger blocks of colour.
Traditional Fair Isle sweater construction usually involves knitting the body of the sweater
in the round, sewing or otherwise fastening the work securely where the arm holes are to go, and then cutting the knit fabric to make the armholes. These cuts are known as
steeks in American knitting terminology, but not in the Shetland Isles where the Fair Isle technique was developed.
Further Information
Get more info on 'Fair Isle Technique'.
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